I hope that this helps you in your design journey in Silhouette Studio. I’ll be honest and most times I just click the buttons until it does what I want it to do as each design can vary. The Undo function is your BEST FRIEND in any software program!
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Have you ever wanted to soften the edges of a photo or distress the edges of a photo so it’s not such a sharp edge?
Blue words in this tutorial are linked to more information on that particular topic. Click on the word and it will open a new window with a tutorial on that subject.
Let’s look at 3 ways we can do this in the Silhouette Studio software.
#1 Softening edges with a svg file #2 Softening edges with a .studio file from the Design Store #3 Softening edges with a png file
There are 2 things I want to mention first
The first thing is that when you are working with photo files or distressed files as we will be, they can be large files and they can be data heavy. You may need to be patient with your computer as it processes the data and makes the changes. This will vary for each user and for some users it may cause your software to crash because it’s a lot of data that is being changed.
If you experience a crash on the software, close all other programs on the computer and close all tabs in the Silhouette Studio software and try again.
The second thing is if you are cutting the design out, keep in mind that it will cut around the distressed areas. Depending on what material you are cutting it from, you may have a bit of weeding to do.
Let’s get started!
I started in Photoshop Elements with digital scrapbooking before I was a Silhouette user and in the graphics programs we worked with “clipping masks”. Which basically means, a mask (design) that you are clipping (combining) to a photo or image. This means the photo takes on the shape of the “mask”.
A lot has changed in the past 9 years and a “clipping mask” can be called many different things today. It is still basically the same thing, just new words & new file formats to be recognized for the same technique. When working in the graphic programs such as Photoshop, we used png files mostly as the clipping mask, but other file types can be used as well.
Let’s take a look at how to do it in Silhouette Studio
Affiliate links may be present in the below and as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.What that means is that I may receive compensation if you purchase through the links I have provided. The price you pay for the product or service is not higher but I may get compensated for sharing.
#1 Softening edges with a svg file
A svg file is a ready to cut file, which means it already has a cut line around the design. For more information on svg files check out these posts: File Formats for Silhouette Studio
Open a photo image that you would like to work with. Resize the photo if needed using the Scale Tools and center it to the page using the Align Tools. These tools can be found in the Panels on the right side or in the QAT Toolbar at the top.
*Photo images can be large files and open large. Each photo will vary in size according to the original photo file. Keep in mind image quality if you are printing the photo. If a yellow triangle appears in the top left of Silhouette Studio, the image may be low resolution to print at the size you currently have on the design page.
Open the svg file that you want to use by File > Open in the Silhouette software. To open a svg file in Silhouette Studio, you do need the Designer Edition upgrade or higher. Find out more details on opening svg files HERE.
Bleach Effect Background SVG by Little Type Factory
This file is great because you have several file type options! A few keywords to search for are: bleach effect svg, clipping mask svg, or photo mask svg. For this technique, make sure of the file types you are receiving with the file and that svg is an option.
By opening using File > Open the svg file opens on a new design mat. Since this is a large file, I prefer it opens on a new design mat so I can make any changes needed on that design mat before the next step.
Copy and paste the svg file to the design mat with the photo and close the original svg.
Resize the svg file to the desired size for your photo. I use the corner bounding box unless I need a specific size. If I need a specific size, then I would use the Scale tools.
Select both the photo and the svg file at the same time. This can be done by left clicking and holding the left mouse button down and dragging across both objects or by holding the Shift key down on the keyboard and clicking on each object you would like to select.
Open the Modify Panel and with both objects selected, choose Crop. Be patient with your computer! This is where the data is changing.
Ta-da! The photo now has a distressed look around the edges that match the svg file chosen.
As I mentioned at the beginning, if you are cutting a distressed object, it will now cut that distressed shape.
Click the Send tab in the top right corner. Select the design by clicking on it (very important!) and choose Cut. Bold red cut lines will appear around the design.
The Silhouette machine will cut everywhere you see those bold red cut lines.
#2 Softening edges with a .studio file
Files you get from the Silhouette Design Store automatically download to your Silhouette library. These are .studio file types. A .studio is a proprietary file to Silhouette and is a ready to go cut file.
*If files from the Silhouette Design Store are not downloading directly to your library, follow the tutorial HERE step-by-step to correct that.
*If a .studio file from the Silhouette Design Store does not have bold red cut lines around it when you go to the Send tab when cutting, check out the tutorial on how to fix it HERE. Hint: it is NOT by tracing it
In the Silhouette Design Store you can search for design such as:
Other search options are: paint, splatter, distressed, or inkpen
If you want to narrow the search down even more try using quotation marks around the specific terms. For instance, type “grunge” in the search bar. Another way to narrow the search is in the filters on the left side, uncheck the printable patterns, print and cut, 3D crafts, sketch, and rhinestone. This means the search will bring up regular cut files and fonts.
Any cut file or dingbat font would work for this technique. We will be using a cut file as an example.
Since a .studio file is a cut file, the steps are pretty much the same as the svg file.
Open a photo image that you would like to work with. Resize the photo if needed using the Scale Tools and center it to the page using the Align Tools.
Open the file you want to crop the image to. If the file contains multiple objects, I open it on a new design mat as it can be easier to work with.
Copy and paste the design to the photo design mat. You may need to ungroup the design to only copy 1 part of it. All designs will vary and it is dependent on how the Designer saved the file.
Adjust the design to your liking. In this case, I scaled the design up and rotated it.
Select the photo and the design at the same time.
Open the Modify Paneland with both objects selected, choose Crop.
Pay close attention to the file after you crop. On distressed images, you can end up with smaller bits and “artifacts” that you don’t necessarily need or want. However, each design is going to vary. You will be able to see these if you look close at your design and watch for the selection boxes around small areas. In this case, these are “artifacts” and are not needed for the image.
I can move the original main image off, draw a wide selection box around the design mat area where the original was and you will see those “artifacts” show up with the selection boxes indicating where they are. Press delete on the keyboard to remove them.
Move the original design back on the mat, click the Send tab in the top, select the design by clicking on it (very important!), and then choose Cut. Bold red cut lines should turn on around your image.
Ta da! You did it!
#3 Softening the edges with a png file
The 3rd way in this tutorial is to use a png file. A png file is not typically a cut file, which means it will require additional steps to turn it into a cut file. A png is a flattened photo file and does not contain pieces or cut lines (typically).
I will also state right off the top that this method is going to take longer, because of the data processing time and your computer. But, if your only option is a png image, grab a cup of coffee and check your email while the computer is processing the data. You will see what I mean in a few minutes.
There are 2 ways you can turn a png into a cut file. 1. In versions of the Silhouette Studio software of v4.4 software there is now a feature called Autotrace. Autotrace is defaulted ON and when a transparent png file is opened, it should automatically trace around the outer edge of the transparent png file. However, there are still bugs in the Autotrace feature and it can vary by software version. The only way to know if you are affected or if a particular design is affected will be to test it.
Keep in mind that when you trace a png file, that is adding more data to your file exponentially. That means A LOT of data! This can be a lot for your computer to handle and each user may experience something different.
If you experience crashing following along with this same file I use, try a simpler file and see if your computer can handle that. This file used even taxed my computer and I had to be patient.
A few of the things that you might experience with Autotrace are: – png files opening very large – opening a png file takes longer (sometimes a lot longer) – the software crashes – working with the png to resize after it opens is jumpy or takes a lot longer
If you experience any of that, I would recommend turning the Autotrace off and go to the 2nd way to work with png files.
Check out the tutorial on Autotrace for more details HERE.
2. Trace a png file to get cut lines. Check out the tutorial on the Basic Trace Panel HERE. The basic trace is all you should need for #3, so let’s take a look at how to do that.
Open a photo image that you would like to work with. Resize the photo if needed using the Scale Tools and center it to the page using the Align Tools.
Open the png file. This should open onto a new design mat. A png file can be opened in all versions of the Silhouette Studio software.
If the png file opens large, scale it down as desired. If the png file opens small, do not resize it. This will affect how it traces. A png file is an image file, which means it’s made up of pixels. If you increase the size of a photo file, this can pixelate the image. This means that a trace will trace all of those pixels.
I opened DD2024 Clipping Mask 4 and it opened large than my mat, so I scaled it down a bit.
Open the Trace Panel. Click Select Trace Area. Draw a box around the area to be traced.
Tracing an object will vary by the object. This is something that is affected by color, gradients, design, etc. Black always traces the best! White does not trace without “tricking” the software in some way.
The Trace Panel can have different adjustment options depending on what software version is being used.
If needed, I adjust the Threshold up or down to get the yellow as solid around the area I want to be traced.
In this case, we are wanting the distressed look. So I am tracing it exactly as it is showing on the screen.
After all adjustments are made that you want, then click the Trace button at the bottom of the Trace Panel.
Be patient with your computer! Remember when I said above that tracing adds more data exponentially to the file. Using the Trace Panel does not seem to require as much processing time as the Autotrace option, but this will vary by user’s computer.
Just look at all those red cut lines around the design now.
Move the png file off the design mat.
Look at all those red lines. Those are cut lines. This is a distressed image. Keep that in mind if you are cutting the image. It will cut all of those.
For this tutorial, that is the effect we are going for.
If you want to eliminate some of those areas, I won’t go step-by-step with photos now, but here is how to do it. Right click on the trace and choose Release Compound Path. Be PATIENT – like really patient – this will depend on the design completely but it can take awhile – do NOT continue clicking or the software may crash. It could crash the software still if it’s too complex. When the compound path is released, all the little pieces will show with individual selection boxes. Click off and click back on each piece to select it and delete. When finished editing, select the entire image, right click and choose Make Compound Path.
Fill the design with color to see how it looks using the Fill Color Tools. It should look like the png file that was traced.
Now, that we have the cut lines we can follow the same steps as we did for the first 2 methods.
If you want to keep this file after you’ve traced it, save it as your template file to use in the future.
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As a side note here – I accidentally double clicked on the traced image and the Edit Points popped up. Remember when I said a trace adds more data?
Wow! Check out those gray dots! Each one of those is a data point the Silhouette machine has to hit in order to complete a cut. If you are cutting this design or any design with a lot of edit points, you might want to try clicking the Simplify option in the Edit Points window that pops up. Just make sure you do not simplify too much and get red dots. Red dots mean open points and the cuts will not connect. Check out more on Edit Points HERE. It is a great tool to understand and play with!
This is why your computer may need time to process the steps you are doing. When you are making changes, the software has to recalculate all those edit points every single change. This is also why some designs do not cut well when they are scaled down because you are squishing those edit points into a smaller space.
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Copy and paste the traced design to the original photo design mat.
If it helps to change the Fill Color to Transparent so you can see where to place the image, use the Fill Color Panels and choose the cross-hatched (transparent) option.
Adjust the mask design as desired on top of the photo.
Select the photo & design together. Open the Modify Panel, choose Crop with both objects selected.
Be patient with your computer! I know I keep saying that, but even for my computer this is a lot of data to process and change! The more distressed the image is, the more edit points it has, the quality of the trace are all factors in the data of the file.
After the computer processes and crops, you may notice that it has a lot of gray boxes and in my example, it is so many that it looks black around it. These are those distressed bits. Immediately after the crop is finished, while all these parts are selected, Group the design together. Either press Ctrl+G (Command+G on Mac) or right click and choose Group.
Now, I will say, for this example that I choose, I probably will not cut it as it’s too complex and will probably just tear up the material. But, I can print it and use it for sublimation or other projects.
I grabbed a towel blank and just did a test print with my Epson F-170 printer. Then heat pressed it onto the towel.
Guess what? If you are printing, be patient with your computer and printer as this is a large file and data to send from one device to another. Did you think you’d already heard it enough? I know you may not want to hear it again, but I see it mentioned often on groups when we are troubleshooting. It can take some time to process and I want to prepare you for that.
This is a blank I received in my Vapor Apparel Foam Decoration Kit, so I thought why not do another test? When pressing sublimation onto colored blanks, the color of the blank will affect the final outcome of the pressed colors. In this design, it turned out pretty well.
And I’ll share one more, even though it didn’t turn out perfect – although in the photo you cannot tell. But, in real life this looks a bit green, which means it’s undercooked. I followed the instructions I found online for pressing for 30 seconds and I do not think it was long enough.
For more tips on Sublimation with Silhouette, check out the Sublimation section on the blog HERE.
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If you find your computer is running slow after working with all this data or with larger files, make sure you are closing everything and doing a full system shut down and/or a restart on the computer. Both never hurts to clear out things in the computer and should be done on a regular basis.
Even just closing the Silhouette software can help to reset things. I would also recommend that if you have any Recovered Documents showing up, clear those out. The Recovered Documents section is not designed as a file storage and it has to remember all the data for every single file when you open the software. Check out more on Recovered Documents HERE.
I hope you learned something new in this post! It is packed with a lot of information. Make sure to save it to come back to later!
I would love to see what you are creating with your Silhouette software or machines! Feel free to post on my Facebook group at Silhouette Secrets with EllyMae.
Save this for future reference by pinning the image below.
Enjoy !
THANK YOU for your support! How can you help? Click HERE & buy a coffee. Every little bit helps with the cost of running the site.
Or if you are looking for more in-depth, step-by-step classes, check out all of my online Silhouette classes on my Teachable site HERE.
**This post may contain affiliate links. What that means is that I may receive compensation if you purchase through the links I have provided. The price you pay for the product or service is not higher but I may get compensated for sharing.
Have you ever wanted to see how a design might look on a blank before you cut it? Or use the exact image of the blank to gauge the size when designing? I will do this often when I’m creating a project to see how things will line up.
In Silhouette Studio we can do this easily.
The first thing to start with is setting up the blank to get a good, clear photo of it that can be used.
Select some sort of background for the blank. If using this as a mock up for customers or to advertise, I would highly recommend a professional looking background.
I have a few different poster board backgrounds or large bulletin board paper rolls that I will use and set up in an area that is well lit. The one I choose is usually dependent on the colors of the blank item, but I do have my favorites too.
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Natural lighting is best if you can but I also have photo studio lights that I’ll use if I’m working after dark. These are the ones I have – Limo Studio Lighting Kit. Then take the most straight on, clear photo that you can. I always take several at a time while it’s all set up and then I have options if one didn’t turn out.
Here is one photo I took. After bringing it up on my computer, I realized that I could still see my finger marks from smoothing out the shirt. Depending on what you are using the image for take a few minutes to get it set up right, smooth, and looking it’s best. If you are using it for your own personal mock- up, then this would probably be ok. It never hurts to have extra photos of things you are working with.
I just use my phone to take most photos, but any good quality camera will work well too.
The next thing to do is to bring this photo into your Silhouette software. You can use File > Open and find where you saved the file or drag and drop the image from the My Computer folder onto the design workspace if you have the Designer Edition upgrade or higher.
What you may notice is that your photo comes in quite large. This is all dependent on the photo settings of the device you took the photo with.
Click on the photo to select it.
Then choose the Scale option either in the Quick Access Toolbar or under the Transform Panel – Tab 2 – Scale tab and select an option. For my photos, I choose the 33% and the image is still usually larger than I really need.
The first thing you will notice is that the photo may look like it disappears. Don’t panic, it’s just shrunk and is off the work space.
The easiest way to work with it is to immediately choose the Center to Page option. This will bring the design right back to the design mat. But, the most important thing here is to not click on the design space or the photo will no longer be selected to apply this action to.
Here is a quick video showing the steps outlined above
Once the photo is back in the design space area, you may still need to scale it down some to work with it. This will just depend on the size of the project you want to use it for.
This can either be done using the Scale tools again or by grabbing the corner bounding box on the image and dragging it in to make it smaller.
Next, eliminate the excess space around the background that you do not want. To do this, I draw a rectangle using the Drawing Tools. Place it on top of the photo image as desired.
Then Select both the image and the rectangle and choose Crop in the Modify Panel.
This eliminates all the excess around the design. You could “crop” the image to any shape that you would like.
Now we can add the design on top to get an idea of how it will look. Open the design and place it on top. Scale it down to the size you feel looks good.
Now, you will probably notice right away that there are red cut lines showing around the design. If you are using this as a mock up, you don’t want those to show.
There are a couple of ways to save this as a mock up that could be used outside the software.
The highest quality image will be if you have the Business Edition upgrade and can export as a jpeg file. This of course will also be dependent on the quality of the image that you are starting with.
Save as jpeg
With the Business Edition upgrade to the Silhouette software, it unlocks the ability to export a design as a jpeg file type. This is an image file.
Personally, I use the File > Save Selection option, but the File > Save As works the same too.
Select both the background image and the design.
Chose File in the top left corner > Save Selection > Save to Hard Drive.
Then a window comes up that asks how where to save and how to save.
Choose where you want to save the file and then change the “Save as type” at the bottom of the window.
This process will work the same for saving as a jpeg, png, pdf, and svg. 2 things to note here: 1. If the design contains a Silhouette Design Store file, it may give you a warning that it cannot save. More information can be found HERE on the for svg files – Let’s Explore v4 – Save as a SVG file 2. This option is only available in software versions higher than v4.1.197 of the Silhouette software and with the Business Edition upgrade.
And you have a photo of your “mock up” design without cutting the material and applying it.
Now my one suggestion if you are in this for a business or selling is, only create mock ups of products that you have actually made and have experience with. I see often where someone has taken an order and they have never created the actual product. This can be very stressful and frustrating when you have orders to fill.
Other Options to Save As
If you do not have the Business Edition upgrade, a couple other options for saving the image is to use the Snipping Tool on a Windows computer or using a screen shot and then cropping it in another program.
With this method you will need to test as the image quality is not always the greatest.
The Snipping Tool is on a Windows computer can be found by typing “Snipping Tool” in the search bar in the bottom left corner on your computer. Click on it to open it. It looks like this
I click on New. Draw a box around what I want to “snip” and then do File > Save. I have this little tool pinned to my bottom Windows taskbar and can open it at any time.
You could also use the Print Screen option on the computer keyboard, but then would need to crop the image in another program such as Photoshop or Paint.
On a MAC The magic keys on a MAC are “Shift Command 3” for a full screen shot or for a “snip” Shift Command 4 and this will only take a shot of a portion of the screen.
Using Images as Design Templates
You are not limited to using a photo of a blank as a mock up, but I will use them also for designing as well.
For instance, when I was working on the gunpowder wood-burned clock project HERE, I brought in the image of a stained wood round to use while I was designing it.
I scaled it down.
Then I drew a circle the same size as the wood round and adjusted the photo to fit.
And then I used the Modify Panel and Crop tool to take out the excess from around the blank.
Then I could use the image to work with when I was designing the clock pieces.
There are so many options when you are working with the Silhouette software.
I would just recommend grabbing a photo of one of your blanks and just start playing. Do a template of your next shirt design for yourself or just to walk through the techniques. You never know when the tools will come in handy for other project types as well!
Save this for future reference by pinning the image below.
Enjoy!
THANK YOU for your support! How can you help? Click HERE & buy a coffee. Every little bit helps with the cost of running the site.
Or if you are looking for more in-depth, step-by-step classes, check out all of my online Silhouette classes on my Teachable site HERE.
**This post may contain affiliate links. What that means is that I may receive compensation if you purchase through the links I have provided. The price you pay for the product or service is not higher but I may get compensated for sharing.
The Modify Panel has lots of neat tools in it that perform a variety of functions.
It can be found on the right side of the Silhouette Studio v4.
Let’s take a look at all the tools in this panel.
Weld – Joining two or more objects that are overlapping together to form 1 object. This is often used with text when you want it to cut as one solid design vs individual letters.You will notice that the top text, the red lines from the characters overlaps the letter next to it. If you sent it to cut like this, it will cut out the red lines exactly how they show, so your letters would have cuts through them.By choosing to weld the font first, you can join the letters together so it cuts as one smooth piece. After you have welded, any piece of the text that is not overlapping will now be a separate object – like the dots of the i, so you want to make sure to Group them together to keep the text moving as one design.
When you weld text, it does change it from editable text to a vector image, so make sure to make a copy & pull it off to the side so you have the original in case you need to go back.
Subtract – Takes the top layer and subtracts it out of the bottom layer under it.On top is the original design. Mom is typed out and behind the names.
When you select both designs and choose Subtract, it subtracts out the names (top layer) from the Mom design (bottom layer).
This works well for things like layering HTV where you don’t want the bulk of layering on your shirt or if you are using glitter HTV that is not recommended to be layered.
Tip: with this design, I would create an offset of the original names and then use the offset to subtract from the Mom design. It gives you a little more flexibility in placement when you apply it to the shirt.
I used a 0.20 offset on this design. Then moved the original name text away and used the Mom (bottom layer) and the offset (new top layer) to Subtract.
Since I used an offset, this will allow you to place your names text inside of the area when applying the HTV and you won’t have to worry as much about shrinkage and getting it perfect.
Move the name text back on top of your Subtracted design to get an idea of how it looks. On the top design, you have to get the exact placement of the names lined up with the bottom layer. On the bottom design, you will notice there is a bit of white showing around the name text, this will be beneficial when you are applying HTV so you don’t have to worry as much as about the HTV shrinking when you press each color.
I used MF I love glitter font by Misti Fonts and Gulana font.
Keep in mind if you plan to sell creations with these fonts, you will want to purchase the Commercial License for each.
If you are using adhesive vinyl, it is not as much of an issue because there is no shrinkage. But, you will still need to get it lined up perfectly and layering marks can help with that – check out how to do that HERE.
Subtract All – This option removes any part of an design that is behind another design.
I always start my pulling off a copy of my design to the holding area off the mat, so I can go back to the original if needed.
So above I drew a heart and moved it behind my Mom and name layers. Make sure to align the design how you want and then I chose Subtract All and it cuts out the top 2 layers from the very bottom layer (heart).
This works great for making designs that you don’t want to have the bulk of materials overlapping.
Again you could use an offset to help with ease of getting it lined up and not worrying about shrinkage.
Intersect – When 2 or more designs are overlapping, this will keep only the part of the design that is intersecting between the designs and the rest is deleted.
Divide – When 2 or more designs are overlapping, this will divide any parts that are overlapping, but keeps all of the pieces on the design mat. Nothing is deleted.
Crop – This will allow you to crop a shape out of a pattern, design or in this case a photo.Draw a heart over the photo, select both the photo and circle, then choose Crop and it will take that shape out of the layer under it.
There are so many neat things you can accomplish with these tools under the Modify Panel. I encourage you to draw some shapes, pull in some patterns and just play around with them to see what they do.
Save this for future reference by pinning the image below.
I truly believe that if you learn how to create in the software, the possibilities are endless!
The software is the key!
And it is such a powerful program that is available for anyone to use.
I would love to see what you are creating or learning with your Silhouette!
Feel free to post photos or questions on my Facebook group at
Silhouette Secrets with EllyMae.
Enjoy !
THANK YOU for your support! How can you help? Click HERE & buy a coffee.
Every little bit helps with the cost of running the site.
Looking for more in-depth, step-by-step classes, check out all of my online Silhouette classes on my Teachable site HERE.
**This post may contain affiliate links. What that means is that I may receive compensation if you purchase through the links I have provided. The price you pay for the product or service is not higher but I may get compensated for sharing.
THANK YOU for your support! How can you help? Click the link to buy a coffee. Every little bit helps in the cost of running the site.