I know everyone is always looking for the “perfect cut settings” with Silhouette. Well, let’s just start with
That is a myth!
What you will see is many “suggested settings”. Even in the Silhouette software, there are “preset settings“. These are just a starting point.
Why?
Well, the first reason is Not all materials are created the same. You may have variances in products even within the same brand, colors, style, etc. There is no magic one size fits all cut setting. This is why you will see so many “suggestions” from user’s when someone asks on a Facebook post. It is also why you will see each different retailer have their own “suggested settings.”
The next reason is There are many other factors that play into it. The settings that might work for one user may not work for another because the factors may not all be the same.
The biggest of these factors is whether the blade is installed properly and adjusting correctly. This is still the #1 cutting error issue and it affects ALL Silhouette machines.
Cameo 3 Autoblade and Silhouette black “ratchet” blade installation
This is one of the best things you can learn to do for yourself & to save yourself headache in the future. It doesn’t matter if you are an experienced user or a beginner. If the blade is not installed properly with no gap and adjusting properly, you WILL have cut issues. This is an important step no matter what blade type you are using. If you have a gap between the lip of the blade and the housing, you will most likely experience inconsistent cut results.
This is how the blade should be installed on a Cameo 4, Cameo Plus, Cameo Pro, or Portrait 3.
There should be absolutely no gap between the lip of the blade and the housing. AND the lock on the front of the blade needs to be pushed in completely.
For those using the Autoblade watch as the machine does it’s “tap dance” at the beginning of the cut, does the red line inside the blade adjust properly and to the correct number?
If it does not, we can start troubleshooting it with a photo of the blade installed with the cutting mat or vinyl loaded if you post on the Silhouette Secrets+ Facebook group or check out this video by Silhouette America on Cutting Machine Maintenance and how to Reset the Motor at 4:38 in the video. This should reset the housing so that it is properly aligned to hit the adjustment holes correctly.
After the blade installation other factors that play into a cut are:
Blade life? How old is the blade? Or more importantly, how much as it been used.
What else has the blade cut? I would recommend keeping dedicated blades for each material you do cut. This can increase the lifespan of the blades and get you better cuts. For instance, glitter eats a blade and can sometimes even take chunks out of it. If you’ve cut glitter and then go back to cutting vinyl, it may not cut well again. Or another examples is cutting cardstock. Paper dulls a blade at a different rate than vinyl. This is one reason that fabric people & people who sew have separate scissors for cutting fabric vs paper scissors. Also keep in mind that thicker, denser materials are going to dull a blade faster than thin materials.
Cutting with a 3rd party mat? Third party mats can be different sizes and thicknesses. This can affect the cut quality. It is not recommended to use 3rd party mats for many reasons. It can affect not only the cut quality but also the lifespan of the machine’s rollers as well.
Is the cutting strip damaged? This is a rubber strip under the blade housing that provides the pressure from the bottom of the mat/material. Any nicks, dings, holes, slices in it can affect the cut. Find more details on the cutting strip HERE.
Are you re-sticking your mats? Re-sticking mat can cause all kinds of cutting issues. It can gum up the machine or blades. It can cause the rollers to not function properly. It is not advised.
Cheap materials? Sometimes it’s a get what you pay for situation. Cheap vinyl/htv, etc. can be a headache and it may not be that you are doing anything wrong, it’s just difficult to work with.
Silhouette machine model? Yes, each machine can vary because they are different.
All of these are factors that can affect the cut quality.
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So what do you do?
TEST CUT
Test cuts are going to be your BEST FRIEND!
I start with the preset in the software that is the closest material to what I’m using.
For instance, if I’m cutting a solid color Heat Transfer, I select Heat Transfer Smooth and do a test cut with the recommended settings. If I’m cutting Oracal 651, I start with the Vinyl – Glossy setting. If it doesn’t cut, adjust the cut settings and do another test cut. I recommend only changing 1 thing at a time and doing a new test cut. If you change too many things at once, you don’t really know what worked.
As you do this more and more, you will start to see patterns. For instance, on the Cameo 4 models I find I have to increase the blade depth up 1 on almost all materials.
There are 2 ways you can do a test cut.
1 – Use the Test Cut feature in the Silhouette software on the Send tab.
The default test cut option is in the upper left corner of either the mat or the material loaded.
If you need to move the test cut to do it again, you can do so in 2 ways. You will need to move the test cut to the exact location you want it to cut on your material.
To do this, use the arrows keys next to the test cut button on the Send tab in the software or the arrows on the Cameo touch panel on the right side.
To move the housing, you will need to move it both over to the right and down. The housing will perform the test cut in the exact location it is placed. If it is only moved over to the right, it will cut the top of the cutting mat.
Or the second way to do a test cut is use a shape or object.
I use a capital B that I type out and then I will place it on my virtual mat where my design is not located at. I love this way because it is faster than adjusting the housing and a bit more accurate since you place it where you want.
Click on the Send tab, click exactly on the design to select it and choose No Cut to turn the cut lines off on the design and only cut the capital B.
Select the material you are cutting and click the Send button at the bottom of the Send tab to cut the B. Did it cut? If not, adjust the settings, move the B and send it to cut again.
It is much better to use a small section of material to make sure the settings will work versus sending a full 20″ design and it didn’t cut well. This will save you both time and headache.
Note: if doing a print and cut project, you do not want the test cut to cut from the top left of the printed page or it can interfere with the reading of the registration marks.
You can also either change the Line Color or the Fill Color of the B and then use the Cut by Line or Cut by Fill color options to turn the cut lines on or off.
This was one of the habits that I found the hardest to get into. I was a Silhouette user for many years before I knew about the test cut feature. But, if you think about it, it makes complete sense and it will save you time, materials, and headache in the long run!
While there are NO one size fits all “cut settings”, the more you cut, you will get familiar with what you are working with.
Once you have found those “perfect” cut settings for your material, you can create a custom setting in Silhouette for your materials. Find out more on Custom Cut Settings HERE. And if you do use custom cut settings, make sure you are backing those up or writing them down somewhere too!
Now the next question I see all the time is “How long should a blade last?“
Again, there is no “perfect” answer to this!
As a beginner I do feel you will go through blades and cutting mats faster than an experienced user. Why?
Because you are learning! Learning how this work, learning how things cut, learning what works and what doesn’t. As you continue to cut things, you will find tips and tricks that work for you!
Many of the same factors go into the blade life as the cut settings, such as materials you are cutting or settings you are using.
While I know that may not be the news you want to hear – that there is no “magic” button to cut all materials, I hope that it will help save you some frustration and headache in the long run. Test cut, test cut, test cut. Now repeat it to yourself!
Whether you are a new user or an experienced user, I would love to see what you create with your Silhouette machines & software. Feel free to post photos or questions on my Facebook group at Silhouette Secrets with EllyMae.
Save this for future reference by pinning the image below.
Enjoy !
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Cutting HTV on the Cameo 4, Cameo Plus, or Cameo Pro Troubleshooting
Are you having issues with getting HTV to cut properly on the Cameo 4, Cameo Plus, or Cameo Pro? Or are you noticing issues with the HTV feeding properly through the machine?
Recently, I was cutting HTV with my Cameo Pro and was having feed issues. I see several times each week on Facebook where users are having cut issues with their machines. I kept loading and unloading the HTV and began to notice a pattern.
Note: these tips will work for all Silhouette machines, but you may find that you notice it more on a Cameo 4, Cameo 4 Plus, or Cameo Pro models
If you are having cutting or feed issues with your Cameo machine is your HTV curled?
As I watched the machine load and feed through, I noticed that the HTV was curled. If it is, this will affect your cutting and HTV feeding through the machine 100%! If you lay your HTV flat and the edge curls up, this can cause issues.
Typically, HTV comes in a roll and is shipped that way, especially if you are buying it in longer sections. Depending on how it’s rolled, it can retain that shape and then it will not roll flat through the machine.
Why do you have cut or feed issues?
Since the HTV is curled, it will catch inside of the machine as it rolls through. This is not a machine fault, this is due to the HTV being curled.
First, the number one thing that needs to be checked is that the blade is installed properly. I cannot even tell you how many posts I see daily on Facebook that the blade is not installed properly. This is one of the best things you can learn to do for yourself & to save yourself headache in the future. It doesn’t matter if you are an experienced user or a beginner. If the blade is not installed properly with no gap and adjusting properly, you WILL have cut issues.
This is how the blade should be installed on a Cameo 4, Cameo Plus, Cameo Pro, or Portrait 3.
There should be absolutely no gap between the lip of the blade and the housing. AND the lock on the front of the blade needs to be pushed in completely.
Then watch as the machine does it’s “tap dance” at the beginning of the cut. Does the red line inside the blade adjust properly and to the correct number?
If it does not, we can start troubleshooting it with a photo of the blade installed with the cutting mat or vinyl loaded if you post on the Silhouette Secrets+ Facebook group or check out this video by Silhouette America on Cutting Machine Maintenance and how to Reset the Motor at 4:38 in the video. This should reset the housing so that it is properly aligned to hit the adjustment holes correctly.
Once the blade is installed properly and adjusting properly, the next place to look is where this curled HTV can cause issues.
3 places to watch for curled HTV catching
1 – The Roller bar Is the HTV loading properly and straight? If the HTV is curled too much, it may not be securely under the rollers and the machine cannot grip it well. This means that it may be pulling it in at an angle.
Here is an example of what it might look like if the HTV is not securely caught between both the rollers. One side may pull in more than the other.
It can also catch on the bottom of the blade in the Tool 1 or Tool 2 housing. If the HTV is curled and you do get it loaded straight, the curl on it can catch on the bottom of the blade(s) as it rolls back and forth.
Here is an example of what it might look like if it gets caught on the bottom of the Tool(s).
If the material does not load straight, unload and try again. If it loads crooked, you will most likely have an issue with it feeding properly. It is better to try again until it is loaded straight or try one of the other solutions below.
2 – The middle bar in the machine.
If you look at your machine, you will see there is a white piece that sort of has a curl up on the front that runs behind where the blade housing moves. The curl on the machine is designed so when a material is loaded and moves toward the back, it directs the material down and through the machine.
However, if the HTV (or other materials) is curled, when it gets to the white piece in the machine, it will go up instead of going down. This means the HTV is not moving freely through the machine and may get caught. This can cause both cut and feed issues.
Watch as the HTV is moving through the machine to see if it’s catching here.
3 – The back of the machine
If it makes it past the first 2 areas, then the last place it might catch is the back of the machine and you may or may not see this as the vinyl coming up behind the metal bar that runs the length of the Cameo 4 models. If you listen close, you will be able to hear this when it catches or you might actually see it come up behind that metal bar as well.
All of these areas can affect the cut or feed of the HTV. Since the HTV is curled, it cannot roll smoothly and flat through the machine. The machine is functioning properly, but since the material is curled, it will catch.
Now, I’m sure you may be wondering how I figured this out. When I noticed there was an issue, I tested. And I tested. And I tested. I watched how the machine was grabbing the materials. I watched how it was moving through. And I watched what parts of the machine were moving when everything was happening. This is a great way to learn your machine and what it doing!
Now, how do you fix it?
Solutions to curled HTV
Tip 1 – Feed the material through the machine until the curl is out the backside.
To advance the material through the machine, press the down arrow on the right touch panel on the Cameo 4, Cameo Plus, or Cameo Pro machine.
Or you can advance the material by using the down arrow key next to the Test Cut button on the Send tab in the software. This would work for all machine models.
Now, this is not always the most ideal or conservative way to work with your HTV roll because you will be advancing it into the machine about 4″ or more to get past that curl.
However, if you are pressed for time, it may be the fastest way to work with it.
Tip 2 – Roll the HTV backwards when you get it.
Once you have identified this as a possible issue you may have, you can then re-roll the HTV rolls when you receive your order. This can help the curl “relax” a bit. And then store the vinyl this way.
If the HTV roll came with a piece of tape on it, tape it securely so it will start to retain the new shape. When you want to use it, the inside of this roll will hopefully be relaxed a bit and less curled.
If you do not have the tape from the original roll, grab a core from an old roll and then place the new roll inside so it will conform to the shape more and be held securely.
Tip 3 – Use a cutting mat to hold the vinyl down.
If the design will fit on the cutting mat and you cannot get it to feed properly, then I would suggest a good sticky cutting mat to help hold that vinyl down as flat as possible.
I do know some users who will even use painter’s tape and tape the HTV so it lays flat. My only caution here is to not place the painter’s tape on the left or right edges where the rollers may roll over it as it may lose it’s grip because of the difference in surface area and cause the mat to skew.
If you do place tape in the roller paths, just be aware if the mat skews or the cut is off, that this could be one reason why. If the left roller is gripping a different material, say the smooth surface of the mat, but the right roller is rolling on painters tape, it can cause it to roll at different rates. This can cause the mat to twist in the machine.
This can also be the case if the right roller is rolling across the adhesive on the cutting mat. It can not only cause your roller to get gummed up, but can affect the feeding of the mat as well since it is rolling on the adhesive and not on the smooth edge of the cutting mat.
Tip 4 – Slow the speed of the cut down.
On the Send tab in the Silhouette software, you can adjust the speed. Faster is not always better. If you continue to have an issue, slowing the speed of the cut down can help not only in the cut, but in also being able to identify the cause of an issue.
Tip 5 – Test cut with a capital B you type out placed below the design area.
If you are not doing test cuts before you send the design to cut, I highly recommend getting in the habit of it. It only takes a few seconds, but can save you time, wasted materials, and big headaches!
This is my favorite way to do a test cut! I use the Text Tool on the left side and type out a capital B. Move the B to a place that is below your design or towards the bottom in the negative space.
Why so far down?
By placing the capital B test cut at the bottom of the design, you will be able to see how the machine and HTV will track as it goes. It will have to roll all the way to the bottom of where the design will be and perform the cut. By doing this, any issues may show up before you’ve actually tried to cut the full design and it didn’t work properly.
One More Tip
This one actually has nothing to do with the machine itself, but it more on the software.
I would suggest reading through this next section entirely so you understand how this one works and also how to “fix” it.
In 2016, there was a new “pop-up” message that was released into the software for Heat Transfer materials called the Mirror pop up.
For heat transfer materials you are generally placing the material face down on the cutting mat and then cutting through the backside of the material. This means that you have to “mirror” the design so it will cut properly. How many times have you cut heat transfer material only to have that “head smack” moment after when you realized you forgot to mirror the image? So the idea behind the “pop-up” message is great!
However, this “new” Mirror pop-up released in 2016, did not just mirror the design in the exact place that it was on the design mat. It flipped the entire mat when it mirrored the image, but it does not show that on the screen. So the design that shows on the screen on the left side of the mat/material, is really going to cut on the right side if you choose “Send Mirrored” and let the software mirror it for you.
If you choose “Send As Is” it will send it to cut in the exact location and exactly as you see it on the screen.
Now, I know that may seem like “old news” since this “bug” has been in the software since 2016. Some users got used to it this way while other users would learn to flip the design themselves and just choose “send as is”.
Now, let’s move to the present. A few months back, I started to notice users commenting that their HTV was not cutting as it should. They would tell the software to mirror it and it wasn’t cutting in the right spot. I reported the issue and found out that the old mirror “bug” was changed in February 2020 the software release. Now, it would flip the design in the exact location you have it placed on the mat, but still does not show you that on the screen. However, if you have anything else on the design file, it will mirror all of the objects. Whether they are in the “holding area” off the cutting mat or not.
If you choose “Send Mirrored“, it could mirror all of the designs on the file. So when it flips it, this is how it would cut.
Now that would come as a complete surprise when you cut and it’s not what you thought it would be. Note: the above screen shot is a representation of how it may cut, you do not see this change on the software screen at all.
This is present in the software versions from v4.4.247 until v4.4.438.
From v4.4.438 and higher, the software now is back to mirroring the design on the opposite side of the design mat than what shows on the screen.
How to work with this?
In the grand scheme of things, this is not a big deal, if you know about it and know how to work with it.
My suggestion to you is to mirror the design yourself.
The fastest way to do that is to right click on the design on the Design tab before you go to cut and choose Flip > Horizontal.
This will flip the image on the screen, in front of your eyes.
And it will then cut in that exact spot if you choose “Send As Is” on the Send tab.
If you do not have right click menus enabled on your computer, you can also find this in the top menus under Object > Mirror > Flip Horizontally too.
I use the Mirror Pop up as my final reminder and it has caught me several times when I forgot to mirror the design. Then I go back and mirror it myself before I’ve sent the design to cut.
Hopefully with those tips above, you will be well on your way to cutting HTV smoothly and being able to troubleshoot when you do have an issue.
I would love to hear if this helped you in identifying a problem or if you just learned something new in today’s post. Feel free to comment below or post on the Silhouette Secrets+ Facebook Group. We love to see what you are doing and creating with your Silhouette machines!
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Enjoy!
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Or if you are looking for more in-depth, step-by-step classes, check out all of my online Silhouette classes on my Teachable site HERE.
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The Cameo Pro is the newest cutting machine released by Silhouette and I have loved creating larger projects with mine.
Today I have 5 tips for setting up the Cameo Pro. These steps can also be used for troubleshooting any cutting or feed issues you may be having with the Cameo Pro.
If you are new to the Cameo Pro and just taking it out of the box, I would highly recommend watching the Unboxing video HERE to get started with the setup.
This post has a lot of information and is photo heavy. I am also making this available as a printable PDF download exclusively for confirmed newsletter subscribers.
I would suggest starting at Tip #1 and working through the list every single time. If one of the first 2 things is the cause of the problems, no matter what else you change, you will continue to have an issue until those are corrected.
Affiliate links may be present in the following blog post and as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Tips for the Cameo Pro
Tip #1
Make sure the Autoblade is installed properly.
The Autoblade has to be installed with absolutely no gap at all between the lip of the blade and the housing.
The locking tab on the front of the blade housing should be pushed all the way in so the hooks grab the blade and hold it in securely.
If the blade does not look like this, take it out and reinstall it and lock it in place.
If you still cannot get the blade installed with no gap, please check out this video by Silhouette America on properly installing the blade in the machine. 4 Things to Remember About Your Silhouette Cameo 4 This installation video applies to all Cameo 4 models and the Portrait 3.
This is the #1 most important factor in getting the machine up and cutting properly. If the blade is not installed properly, it will not adjust or cut consistently and the issues you experience may just compound on each other.
The Cameo Pro comes with an Autoblade and a blue sketch pen adapter only. If you want to use other older model blades in the Cameo Pro, you will need to purchase the blade adapter set or the new soon to be released Premium blade or Deep Cut blade that will fit directly in Tool 1 housing (estimated March 2021 release for the U.S).
Tip #2
Loading the cutting mat or vinyl properly.
The first feature we should discuss is the Autoload feature. This is awesome since the cutting width is now 24″ and it is really hard to grow another arm/hand to help push the load button while holding the material up to the rollers.
The Autoload feature works by pressing the Load button which will start flashing. You have 6 seconds to hold the mat/material up to the rollers and it will pull it in. If it does not load straight or you do not feel it loaded securely. Press the unload button and load it again for best results.
Here is a demo of loading a 12″ roll of vinyl. The Autoload option has a little sensor on the left side of the machine that I point at in the video. Make sure this sensor is clear of debris or it may not work properly.
There are several options of media/mat sizes here so we will go through each.
Loading lined material in the Cameo Pro such as adhesive vinyl or HTV without a mat
In the video above, you see how I loaded a 12″ roll of vinyl. Let’s take a closer look at the details.
When cutting a smaller roll than 24″, the roller bar will need to be unlocked and the right roller moved over to the left so it is on the edge of the material to securely grip it.
The roller bar is locked when the lever points up, release the right side of the roller bar by turning it to the front as the arrow shows on the machine.
Do not force the roller lever release or turn it backwards. Doing so can damage the internal mechanisms.
Once the roller bar is released, the right side of the roller bar will raise and you can slide the right roller along the bar to the correct position. Note: the left roller is stationary and the bar does not lift on the left side. The roller can be moved to any of the gray arrows (circled below) on the Cameo and then rolls from 9″-24″ can be utilized. Move the “guides” along as you move the right roller and position them evenly across the material being cut. These help to prevent the materials from bubbling up in the middle.
There is a rectangle directly in the middle of the right roller and this should be lined up with the gray arrow on the machine for best results. If you look closely, you can see the right roller is directly under this rectangle in the middle of the white bar.
Once the right roller is lined up with the gray arrow that is on the edge of the width of the material you are cutting, carefully turn the roller bar lever back up to the locked position.
When cutting from a roll of material, you will adjust the roll feeder to fit the material as needed. Move the right side of the roll feeder in so it will be snug against the right edge of the material roll.
Then adjust the slides on both sides depending on the size of the material roll.
For a small roll the slides need to be moved out. Loosen the placement screw and then slide it out and tighten the placement screw again.
For the larger rolls adjust as needed, following the same steps.
Note: bulk rolls of vinyl may have issues with feeding properly. If you experience cut issues and you are using a bulk roll of vinyl, try making a smaller roll out of the larger bulk roll. It is a lot of weight to pull against a bulk roll of vinyl. If the vinyl is rolled too tight, you may also experience issues.
The left edge of the material when cutting without a mat, should be lined up with the line on the right side.
Press the Load button and then carefully hold the vinyl up to the rollers with the left edge of the material next to the line and the right side at the right roller. Make sure that the material loads straight. If it does not, hit the unload button and try again. Both sides of the vinyl should be held securely under the rollers or it can slip out during the cut.
The material should be smooth and not bubbled in the middle. You want it to roll in and out of the machine as straight as possible.
Now, let’s take a look at a 24″ roll.
The right roller will be moved to the far right gray arrow and the roller bar lever locked back in place. Spread the guides out evenly between the 2 rollers. The right sliding piece of the roll feeder should be on the edge of the right side of the roll of the material.
The load line stays the same for all widths of material that is cut without a mat.
Loading materials with a cutting mat
The Cameo Pro comes with a 24″ cutting mat. This sucker is a monster and will take some practice to get the hang of maneuvering, but I love having this option!
First, remove the protective cover sheet off of the cutting mat.
The load line is the far left line on the left side of the machine for the 24″ cutting mat.
The roll feeder should still be set up and make sure you are using the middle mat support.
The right roller should be lined up with the far right arrow.
Now, here is probably the biggest thing you will need to keep in mind when using a 24″ cutting mat. The full length of the cutting mat has to be fully supported on the front and the backside. The machine cannot work against gravity to pull the mat into the machine. It is just not possible with the weight of the mat. That is a lot of excess weight working against gravity. This means that you will need to have a work surface that has approximately 22″ on the front and backside of the machine that is flat and allows the mat to roll in and out flat the entire time.
Again, this is BIG! Not only the mat, but you will need to have it supported or the cuts will be off if it has to work against gravity. We built a table with extension for my Cameo Pro so that I am able to use it with the roll feeder as is, but if I need to use the 24″ cutting mat, I can use the extensions so it’s all fully supported.
Check out this video on the Cameo Pro stand with more tips HERE. We have made these plans available for confirmed newsletter subscribers HERE.
Once you are all set up on the machine and ready to load the cutting mat, press the load button and then hold the mat up to the rollers as straight and level as you can. The Autoload starts after 6 seconds.
If the mat did not load straight or you were not ready in time. The machine will still think it is loaded, press the unload button and try again. This is where the Autoload feature comes in handy to make it easier to just focus on loading the mat and not pressing the button at the same time. However, it may take a bit of practice to get used to loading a mat this size.
If you are working with a material that fits on a smaller size cutting mat, I would highly suggest using a smaller size. It will be easier to manage and extend the life on the 24″ cutting mat as well.
Other size cutting mats: 8″ Portrait, 12″ Cameo, or 15″ Cameo Plus mats
When using any cutting mat that is smaller than 24″, the load line is the line on the right side. The left edge of the cutting mat should be next to this line but not over top of it.
Make sure to adjust the right roller in the same manner as listed above when using smaller rolls of materials.
The right roller should always roll across the edge of the cutting mat and not across the adhesive part of the cutting mat. If the rollers are moving across the adhesive on the cutting mat, they can pick up the adhesive and start sticking. With the new design of the Cameo Pro, the rollers are underneath the roller bar and not accessible to clean easily. So I would highly recommend being mindful of where the rollers are placed on the cutting mat. Adhesive build up on the rollers can cause future cutting issues.
The mat support should be attached and moved over to support under the cutting mat as it rolls through the machine according to which size cutting mat you are using. This will help in feeding the mat in as straight as possible.
Tip #3 – Cut settings
The Silhouette Studio software does have a list of preset settings. These are just a suggestion of what to start out with. It is not a full comprehensive list and all material types or brands may vary.
With any machine, you will want to test the settings and see what might work best for the design, the material, and the blade.
For instance, on my Cameo 4 models for Oracal 651, I choose the Vinyl – Glossy setting and then increase my blade depth to a 2. This cuts well for me and my machine.
Or for Oramask 813, I use a bit different setting.
Since I was cutting Oramask quite a bit, I created my own custom setting by clicking on the More button and adding in a new User Defined Setting.
Will my settings work for you, there is no guarantee? Like I said, the preset settings are just a starting point. There are many factors that will play into it.
How do you know what will work? For that we move to #4.
Tip #4 – Test cut! Test cut! Test cut!
I almost feel like repeating that again. Test cut is a great habit to get into!
There is nothing like sending the full cut through only to find out that it did not cut right. And if you are using the automatic feed option on the Cameo Pro, there is no sending it back through to cut again since you have already fed the material out the back to the cross-cutter. Yes, speaking from experience! Even I do it because I think it will all work out. And I kick myself when it doesn’t turn out. It isn’t the Silhouette machines fault I didn’t use the test cut option.
There are 2 ways you can do a test cut.
1 – Use the Test Cut feature in the Silhouette software on the Send tab.
The default test cut option is in the upper left corner of either the mat or the material loaded.
Note: If using a 24″ cutting mat, you will notice that there is a 1/2″ of space on the left and right sides that does not have adhesive on it. That is because this is where the rollers roll and you do not want your material cemented to your cutting mat. This is cuttable space. However, if you are using a material that is less than 24″ wide, you will line up the material 1/2″ to the right of the grid edge, this is where the adhesive starts. Place the material on the cutting mat exactly as it shows on the design screen on the mat. There is also a new pop up that will show up in some versions of the Silhouette software when you go to Send a cut, as a reminder.
However, currently in the software (I am using v4.4.463 & in prior versions), the test cut will cut in the top left corner of the 24″ cutting mat in the default position and does not adjust if your material is less than 24″ wide.
You will need to move the test cut to the exact location you want it to cut on your material. To do this, use the arrows keys next to the test cut button on the Send tab in the software or the arrows on the Cameo touch panel on the right side.
To move the housing, you will need to move it both over to the right and down. The housing will perform the test cut in the exact location it is placed. If it is only moved over to the right, it will cut the top of the cutting mat.
Or the second way to do a test cut is use a shape or object.
I use a capital B that I type out and then I will place it on my virtual mat where my design is not located at. I love this way because it is faster than adjusting the housing and a bit more accurate since you place it where you want.
Click on the Send tab, click exactly on the design to select it and choose No Cut to turn the cut lines off on the design and only cut the capital B.
Select the material you are cutting and click the Send button at the bottom of the Send tab to cut the B. Did it cut? If not, adjust the settings, move the B and send it to cut again.
It is much better to use a small section of material to make sure the settings will work versus sending a full 20″ design and it didn’t cut well. This will save you both time and headache.
Note: if doing a print and cut project, you do not want the test cut to cut from the top left of the printed page or it can interfere with the reading of the registration marks.
You can also either change the Line Color or the Fill Color of the B and then use the Cut by Line or Cut by Fill color options to turn the cut lines on or off.
Tip #5 – Start small
Whether you are a new user or an experienced user, it is a new machine. Start by cutting out a small design versus sending a large design.
I know it’s tempting and I will fully admit I sent a full 22″ design to cut the first time I cut with the Cameo Pro. And guess what? I still have that 22″ design sitting behind me in a pile of excess material because it didn’t cut completely through and I couldn’t send it again.
It may not be the thing you want to hear and most experienced users will say “I got this.”, but if it does not cut right, all you can do is laugh at the choice to “go big” and start a pile like I have.
5 Tips
Those are the 5 main tips that I would suggest to anyone starting on the Cameo Pro or if you are having issues with cuts, feeding, etc. start at #1 and work your way down. But there is more!
If you are a beginner and the Cameo Pro is the first cutting machine for you, I would highly recommend the Beginner First Cuts & Setup class to get started and get the first cuts under your belt.
Those first cuts and getting the machine set up properly are the most important steps you can start with. As a beginner it is hard to know if it’s something not working properly on the machine setup or if it’s something that you are doing. This class can help eliminate some of the anxiety you may feel about getting started.
The video class shows a Cameo 4 – 12″ model, but the same steps will apply to the Cameo Pro as well.
Now, I know it’s a long post, but I can’t just leave it at that. Here are 5 additional tips:
Bonus Tip #1 – When cutting long vinyl designs, you can use the arrow keys on the right touch panel on the Cameo Pro (or other models) to roll the material through prior to cutting to see how it will track. This will help you to see if the rollers are gripping the vinyl securely.
The down arrow will not only move the housing down, but advances the materials through the machine.
Bonus Tip #2 – Make sure the cross cutter is securely on the left or right side and the cross cutter flipped up. This is the cutting mechanism on the backside of the machine.
If the cross cutter-blade is left in the middle or the cross-cutter bar has not been flipped back up, it will hinder the movement of the cutting mat or vinyl the next time you go to cut. Usually if this is the cause, you will hear some very odd noises as the material or mat is hitting the cross-cutter blade or bar.
Another indicator is that the design is cutting over top of itself and not cutting correctly.
Bonus Tip #3 – Reload the vinyl or the cutting mat until it is loaded straight. If it loads crooked, it may cut crooked or come out from under the rollers. The extra time to load it smooth and straight is well worth it.
Bonus Tip #4 – If the edge of the vinyl is curled from being rolled, try to flatten it out or advance the vinyl farther in the machine by pressing the down arrow on the right side panel before sending it to cut. This will help in that curled edge not getting hung up on the working parts in the machine and roll as flat as possible through.
Bonus Tip #5 – Make sure you have the adequate space needed for this machine. It is a large machine and needs to be fully supported.
I would highly suggest that you have it placed securely on a work space that fits the entire width of the cutting machine and allows for the roll feeder to be completely on the table as well.
If you are using a cutting mat, remember that the full length of the cutting mat needs to be supported on both the front and the backside in order for the machine to work properly and cut.
Hopefully with those steps above, you will be well on your way to cutting like a Pro with your Cameo Pro!
If you are up and cutting again after reading this with the Cameo Pro, let us know it helped you by commenting below.
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Silhouette Classes
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I’ve shared a few glimpses of this DIY stand/table that we’ve been in the process of creating for the Cameo Pro. And it’s now finished – whew! Let me tell you, writing the instructions, filming the video, and writing the blog post took twice as long as actually building the stand.
Whether you are considering building your own stand/table for a machine or not, I hope you’ll continue reading and watching as all Silhouette users can pick up some tips from the information in the video below. And maybe share a laugh too!
The photos on the wall aren’t really crooked, just the angle of the photo – lol.
If you are a Cameo Pro owner then you know how large this machine is and if you have been considering it, this is great information to know about so you can plan for it.
Since the machine has a cutting width of 24″ it is much larger than the average Silhouette machine. The machine is approximately 35″ wide and you really want the entire width of the machine to be securely supported.
You also want to consider whether you will be using a cutting mat with the machine or not. If you will be, the full length of that cutting mat needs to be fully supported and rolling in and out of the machine as flat as possible. The Pro simply cannot work against gravity and keep in mind that the mat and material on the mat is weight. If it is hanging down in front of the machine the cuts may not line up properly. And keep in mind that you need the clearance in the back of the machine whether you are using vinyl or a cutting mat. There has to be somewhere for the material to go.
I just have to say that after filming the video above, there is never a dull moment in our house. If I get everything set up to record, then it never fails the microphone dies, I forget to push record, the camera is full and shuts off, I misspeak and say 12″ vinyl instead of 24″ vinyl, or you find something unusual where it shouldn’t be. It’s life! And sometimes you just have to laugh it off!
Note: the sock is gone but new things appear. It’s like the Easter bunny or Santa leaving presents. You just never know what I’ll find.
It’s life…. lol.
Affiliate links may be present in the following blog post and as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Here are the supplies we used to create this DIY Cameo Pro stand:
Supplies: – 1 – 4’ x 8’ sheet of 3/4 inch Sandeply (Home Depot/Lowes) *$40.98 – 5 – 1 x 3 x 8’ (Home Depot/Lowes) *$36.05 – 1 – 1 x 4 x 6’ (Home Depot/Lowes) – *$5.15 – 100 – #8 x 1¼” Phillips wood screws (Home Depot/Lowes/Amazon) *$9.01 – 100 – #8 x 3/4” Phillips wood screws (Home Depot/Lowes/Amazon) *$7.28 – 4 – Drop Leaf Hinges (Amazon) or similar *$15.97 – 4 – 3” Urethane Casters (Harbor Freight) *$15.96
*Our cost – note prices may vary by location. Total cost of base table supplies = $130.40
Both of the signs were creating using the Cameo Pro and the wider cutting space.
This Cameo Pro stand was designed so that a crafter could complete the construction using basic tools. My biggest concern for any new Cameo Pro owner is that the machine is fully supported and stable so you can get the best use and most consistent cuts.
The one thing I would highly suggest is reading the instructions and viewing the photos a couple of times before starting. Even though I was right in the middle of the build process, I still re-read the written instructions several times.
We have written a step-by-step 27-page PDF document that is complete with photos and detailed instructions for the construction of this DIY Cameo Pro Stand. These instructions are available to confirmed newsletter subscribers.
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Whether you build your own Cameo Pro stand or not, I hope that the video and photos have given you some tips and ideas to think about when setting up your own Cameo Pro.
It is amazing how my to-do list for the Cameo Pro has grown. Just like everything else, it seems like a never ending list of projects I want to complete.
What are you creating with your Silhouette machine?
Save this for future reference by pinning the image below.
Enjoy !
THANK YOU for your support! How can you help? Click HERE & buy a coffee. Every little bit helps with the cost of running the site.
Silhouette Classes
Never stop learning! Let me help you take the anxiety out of learning with Silhouette and get to creating faster! My Silhouette classes are heavily focused on software, so you can take the skills & techniques taught and apply them to many future projects!
**This post may contain affiliate links. What that means is that I may receive compensation if you purchase through the links I have provided. The price you pay for the product or service is not higher but I may get compensated for sharing.
THANK YOU for your support! How can you help? Click the link to buy a coffee. Every little bit helps in the cost of running the site.
