

Offset Panel – Silhouette Studio v4
The offset panel in Silhouette Studio is a really useful and functional tool that can be used in many project designs from creating frames, thickening fonts, making layers, and more! This tutorial will show the details of the offset panel and then examples of how an offset can be used several ways.

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This tool can be very useful for many things such as creating a background layer for a decal, creating a shadow, thickening fonts, making frames, etc.

- Offset – This tool creates a copy of the design on the outside edge of the original shape. The default distance is 0.125 inches in older software versions and that is what shows when Offset button is chosen, it can then be adjusted. Select your design and click on the Offset button.
*The default distance was updated in later versions of 4 and will be the last used distance number.

*the offset is filled with yellow for you to see it better
*Create by Cali Arroyo – Design #215617Once the Offset is applied, it will automatically weld together and any parts that are overlapping will now be welded. Keep in mind that if there is a part of the design, such as a dot of an i, that is not overlapping, it will not be welded and it will need to be grouped after you create your Offset.
- Internal Offset – This will apply the offset inside of the design. The default is set for 0.125 inches here too and most likely you won’t see any offset created, if that is left. Once you decrease the offset distance, you can see a change happen.
*The default distance was updated in later versions of 4 and will be the last used distance number.
This is one way to fill a font that you want to use the sketch pens with. By creating multiple internal offsets, the sketch pen will “fill” the font in by drawing all the internal offsets.Here is an example of creating multiple internal offsets to “fill” in a font to sketch.
This was many internal offsets, so many I lost track of how many I created.
First, I will say that it took a lot of ink to fill this in. I was using the Silhouette sketch pens and your results will vary depending on the pen you use and the tip it has on it.

You can see above that even with multiple internal offsets, it did not fill in completely with the Silhouette sketch pen.In some cases, it is not worth the ink or the time to use the sketch pens like this and would be easier to use the Print and Cut feature instead.
- Offset Distance – Change the Distance of the offset to achieve the look you want.
- Offset Corner – Change the look of the offset created by changing the corner shape.

- Cancel or Apply – Choose whether to Apply the Offset (can also hit Enter key) or Cancel.
Let’s take a look at some examples of using Offsets.
Creating an offset as a background to layer a decal:

Check out how I created this and then used layering marks to line up the decal exactly HERE.

Using a Offset to create a space when subtracting and layering HTV:


See details on how I created this shirt HERE.

Using an Offset to thicken fonts for cleaner cutting:

The Samantha font is very popular but it can sometimes be a pain to cut for small projects, a small offset can make a big difference without changing the look too much.
Using an Offset to make a frame:

Make an Offset of the original design, select the offset & original, then right click and choose Make Compound path or use the Modify Panel and choose Make Compound path. Now, you have a frame.
There are many ways to use the Offset and these are just a few examples.
How do you use the Offset feature?
Save this for future reference by pinning the image below.

Enjoy !
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You will notice that the top text, the red lines from the characters overlaps the letter next to it. If you sent it to cut like this, it will cut out the red lines exactly how they show, so your letters would have cuts through them.
By choosing to weld the font first, you can join the letters together so it cuts as one smooth piece. After you have welded, any piece of the text that is not overlapping will now be a separate object – like the dots of the i, so you want to make sure to Group them together to keep the text moving as one design.
When you weld text, it does change it from editable text to a vector image, so make sure to make a copy & pull it off to the side so you have the original in case you need to go back.
On top is the original design. Mom is typed out and behind the names.
When you select both designs and choose Subtract, it subtracts out the names (top layer) from the Mom design (bottom layer).
This works well for things like layering HTV where you don’t want the bulk of layering on your shirt or if you are using glitter HTV that is not recommended to be layered.
Tip: with this design, I would create an offset of the original names and then use the offset to subtract from the Mom design. It gives you a little more flexibility in placement when you apply it to the shirt.
I used a 0.20 offset on this design. Then moved the original name text away and used the Mom (bottom layer) and the offset (new top layer) to Subtract.
Since I used an offset, this will allow you to place your names text inside of the area when applying the HTV and you won’t have to worry as much about shrinkage and getting it perfect.
Move the name text back on top of your Subtracted design to get an idea of how it looks. On the top design, you have to get the exact placement of the names lined up with the bottom layer. On the bottom design, you will notice there is a bit of white showing around the name text, this will be beneficial when you are applying HTV so you don’t have to worry as much as about the HTV shrinking when you press each color.
I used
So above I drew a heart and moved it behind my Mom and name layers. Make sure to align the design how you want and then I chose Subtract All and it cuts out the top 2 layers from the very bottom layer (heart).
This works great for making designs that you don’t want to have the bulk of materials overlapping.
Again you could use an offset to help with ease of getting it lined up and not worrying about shrinkage.

Draw a heart over the photo, select both the photo and circle, then choose Crop and it will take that shape out of the layer under it.






























Then you have the 
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Here you can see that the Trace picks up all shades of green with a 50% tolerance.
And when the tolerance is lowered to 6% it deselects the dark green shamrock and only picks up the light green color in the trace.
You would trace the shamrock and change the tolerance to get it to trace as well.





I prefer to use the Solid Fill so I know exactly where it will trace.



















